Escot Archive

After looking through the archival images of Escot Estate I have selected these 22 photographs to recreate and shoot in the modern day. I scanned them in using the university scanners with high resolution/quality in preparation for enlarging and outputting to print. I would like to shoot on a sunny day (hopefully!) so that I can juxtapose the black and white aged images with bright, colourful and high contrast modern photos, emphasising the time difference. It will also be more eye catching to have bright colour combined with black and white which will catch peoples eye initially, with the content holding it. I need to be careful what time of day I shoot each image so that the shadows match up/sun is not directly behind. I will need to use a tripod for all the images to reduce camera shake so that when I output them as large prints, the images are sharp. I shall also need to shoot with a high aperture to ensure the entire image is in focus, somewhere around F22, and I will need to focus 1/3 into the image. I will need to shoot over several days, returning to locations until I have the image spot on, the repetition enabling me to see the scene with fresh eyes and ensure my ‘rephotograph’ is accurate.

  • ISO – If you want quality and sharpness shoot on the cameras lowest ISO setting. Always check this before commencing a shoot.
  • FOCUS – Do it manually (especially for stationary objects).
  • DEPTH OF FIELD/FOCUS – If the camera has a depth of field preview, or depth of field markings/indicator (either on the digital display or lens barrel) use it.
  • If you require everything to be sharp from foreground to background use the highest F stop (smallest aperture) number and use either the depth of filed preview/indicator or lens barrel markings. Otherwise use the basic guide of focusing 1/3 into the scene at maximum aperture number setting.
  • MOVEMENT – Use a tripod to prevent camera shake (ensure everything is tightened up and secure). Use a cable release (or self timer) to prevent camera movement when depressing the shutter button. Use mirror lock up if your camera has the function. In windy situations use the heaviest tripod you can carry and/or weigh your tripod down using a heavy camera bag or a bag filled with stones (take care that camera doesn’t topple over if doing so).
  • TIMING – Revisit and reshoot the same locations many times over to get the correct light and/or conditions – For example people in the shot, traffic moving etc, etc. Shoot really early in the morning (for those doing classic landscapes). Shoot after rain and wait at location and record the light as it changes over your scene.
  • FILE QUALITY – If you are travelling to a location, then check all your files in photoshop immediately after shooting (not when you return to University) – Check for sharpness and clarity at 100% magnification (actual pixels button).
  • If in doubt – reshoot.
  • FILE SIZE /DOCUMENT SIZE – Check(in photoshop) that your files are large enough for use. In the bottom left hand of the photoshop window there is a small line of white writing that says “Doc: XXM/XXM – The X will be represented as a number (of megabytes) and this indicates your document size – It should be at least 28 M or more (megabytes).
  • If is smaller, then your camera quality settings are set to small/low quality OR you have cropped the image at the wrong resolution (eg 72 dpi).
  • NOTE – All the above mistakes will look good at screen resolution -viewed either on desktop or mobile device – BUT will not print successfully.
  • The learning outcomes of this module are about you producing a portfolio and prints suitable for an exhibition based on a landscape theme of your choice.
  • In order to ensure that your file quality is good enough (before enlarging and outputting to print) do please apply the above ideas (where applicable) whilst shooting to avoid disappointment later on.

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Filed under Landscape: The Social and Environmental

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